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INDEPENDENCE,
TEXAS
Texas Ghost Town
Washington County, Central
Texas S
Jct of FM 50 and FM 390 (La
Bahia)
9 miles N of Brenham
via Hwy 105 and FM 50
82 miles W of Houston
via Hwy 290
Population
140 (est.)
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Independence
Bell Tower
TE photo |
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A
view near Independence
TE photo |
The
town of Independence, Texas is actually very much alive - with a very
active group of preservationists. But it is also a historic ghost
town complete with ruins, restored buildings, residences, cemeteries
and over 30 points of historical interest.
The town once had an enviable head start over other towns of its era
and held enormous promise of being one of Texas' cultural centers,
despite not being a port, crossroads or having a railroad connection.
It did manage to become the wealthiest spot in Texas during the days
of the Republic.
Independence received two death blows - or three if you count not
being elected county seat. The other two were: being bypassed by the
railroad and the loss of Baylor University when it moved in 1886.
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Independence
Early History:
Independence was
originally called Coles Settlement or Cole's Hill after
early settler John P. Coles. Cole was the Alcalde under Mexican rule
and one of the first to venture west from Washington-on-the-Brazos.
Cole was also the county chief justice when Washington County was
established in 1841. Cole once rented a cabin to a Mr. Albert Gallatin
Haynes, who is worth mentioning if only because he named his sons
Tom, Dick and Harry. Other settlers arrived from North Carolina, Alabama
and Kentucky including Nestor Clay - a nephew of Henry Clay.
With the organization of Independence Academy in 1837 people started
applying the name to the town as well. Other sources credit Dr. Asa
Hoxie with naming the town. Hoxie is also credited with naming nearby
Washington.
In 1844 an election for county seat was held with four contenders
- the then county seat of Mount Vernon, Turkey Creek, Independence
and Brenham. Brenham won
by a few votes - having just been renamed in honor of a popular doctor
who was killed in the ill-fated Mier Expedition in 1842. Brenham also
had the advantage of being more centrally located. Turkey Creek and
Mount Vernon disappeared without a trace. |
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The Baptist
Church and Founding of Baylor
A Baptist church was established in September 1839 and shortly thereafter
(1846) Baylor University was founded. During the first few years
the school was coeducational but after 1851 the students were separated
by gender.
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The
four impressive columns to the right of town in Old Baylor Park are
the rebuilt columns of the female Department of the University. The
Male Campus was located on Windmill Hill.
Old Baylor Ruins
TE photo |
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The
original Baylor Female College, early 1900s
Photo courtesy texasoldphotos.com |
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The stream in between the two campuses was lightheartedly referred
to as The River Jordan - since the females (at least in the minds
of the boys) dwelled in "the promised land." |
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The
well of the former Baylor kitchen
TE photo |
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Windmill
Hill and Recent Improvements
Recent improvements on Windmill Hill include a walking path generously
landscaped with native plants and a new generation of live oaks,
an observation tower and the former foundations of the school.
Much of the stone of the abandoned institution was appropriated
by remaining Independence residents and it remains "on permanent
loan" in many local buildings.
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Excavations
of the former male dormitory on Windmill Hill
TE photo |
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Former
stage stop
(Private property)
TE photo |
A
well has been re-excavated and lighted for the benefit of twilight
visitors. The lighting offers a good look at the substantial limestone
shelf the well diggers had to break through.
Visitors can orient themselves by using old photographs (transferred
onto metal) provided by Baylor University.
Across the street from Windmill Hill is the former home (c. 1845)
of General Jerome B. Robertson - Captain in the Army of the Republic
of Texas, Captain in the Somervell Expedition and Brigadier General
of Hood's Brigade, C.S.A. The house has been saved by an owner willing
to wait for a buyer who will faithfully restore the property. |
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Independence
Cemetery
TE photo |
Independence
Cemetery
Eight tenths of
a mile North of the columns in Old Baylor Park on Coles-McCrocklin
Road is the Old Independence Cemetery which dates to the 1820s. Family
plots include the Clay and Coles families. Many inscriptions of places
of birth show the geographical diversity of the early settlers. The
setting of the cemetery surrounded by live oaks, pastures and ponds
deepens an already strongly-felt timelessness.
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PEOPLE
Robert McAlpin Williamson
Three-legged
Willie by Bob Bowman ("All Things Historical"
Column)
"The Republic of Texas, which existed only a decade, had its
share of interesting characters. But few of them were as colorful
as Three Legged Willie, who passed away some 146 years ago...."
more
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The
Houston Family as Residents
Sam Houston lived in Independence after serving as Senator
from Texas in the United States. He rented a house not far from the
Old Baylor Ruins and left his mark in the local church where a pew
still exhibits damage from his hobby of whittling during sermons -
a once popular past time that is frowned upon today.
Houston was also Baptized in Independence - on November 19, 1854 -
not in the church as planned, but in Little Rocky Creek - between
Houston's house and the church. Legend has it that young pranksters
learned of the impending Baptism and clogged the ceremonial font with
mud and debris the night before.
Margaret Lea Houston - Sam's third wife is buried in Independence.
She died of Yellow Fever in 1867 and law prevented her body from being
sent to Huntsville to lie beside her husband. Her mother and daughter
are also buried here. |
Sam
Houston
by James Haley |
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Prior
to the Civil War a debate was held in Independence on the thorny issue
of secession. The debate (comprised of Baylor University students)
was won in favor of the Union. A 50-foot "liberty pole" was erected
and the U. S. flag unfurled, but within a short time the pole was
chopped down by the mayor of Independence (Task Clay), reflecting
the feelings of the majority of citizens - debate or no debate. |
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© John Troesser
Bibliography: Baylor at Independence: 1845-1886, Lois Smith Murray,
Baylor University Press, 1972
Independence
Texas Forum
Anyone
wishing to share history, stories or historic photos of Independence,
Texas, please contact
us. |
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