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  Texas : Towns A-Z / Central Texas South : Independence

INDEPENDENCE, TEXAS

Texas Ghost Town
Washington County,
Central Texas S
Jct of FM 50 and FM 390 (La Bahia)
9 miles N of Brenham
via Hwy 105 and FM 50
82 miles W of Houston via Hwy 290

Population 140 (est.)

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Independence bell tower
Independence Bell Tower
TE photo
Old gas pump and gas staton
A view near Independence
TE photo
The town of Independence, Texas is actually very much alive - with a very active group of preservationists. But it is also a historic ghost town complete with ruins, restored buildings, residences, cemeteries and over 30 points of historical interest.

The town once had an enviable head start over other towns of its era and held enormous promise of being one of Texas' cultural centers, despite not being a port, crossroads or having a railroad connection. It did manage to become the wealthiest spot in Texas during the days of the Republic.

Independence received two death blows - or three if you count not being elected county seat. The other two were: being bypassed by the railroad and the loss of Baylor University when it moved in 1886.

Independence Early History:

Independence was originally called Coles Settlement or Cole's Hill after early settler John P. Coles. Cole was the Alcalde under Mexican rule and one of the first to venture west from Washington-on-the-Brazos.

Cole was also the county chief justice when Washington County was established in 1841. Cole once rented a cabin to a Mr. Albert Gallatin Haynes, who is worth mentioning if only because he named his sons Tom, Dick and Harry. Other settlers arrived from North Carolina, Alabama and Kentucky including Nestor Clay - a nephew of Henry Clay.

With the organization of Independence Academy in 1837 people started applying the name to the town as well. Other sources credit Dr. Asa Hoxie with naming the town. Hoxie is also credited with naming nearby Washington.

In 1844 an election for county seat was held with four contenders - the then county seat of Mount Vernon, Turkey Creek, Independence and Brenham. Brenham won by a few votes - having just been renamed in honor of a popular doctor who was killed in the ill-fated Mier Expedition in 1842. Brenham also had the advantage of being more centrally located. Turkey Creek and Mount Vernon disappeared without a trace.

The Baptist Church and Founding of Baylor

A Baptist church was established in September 1839 and shortly thereafter (1846) Baylor University was founded. During the first few years the school was coeducational but after 1851 the students were separated by gender.

Old Baylor Ruin
The four impressive columns to the right of town in Old Baylor Park are the rebuilt columns of the female Department of the University. The Male Campus was located on Windmill Hill.


Old Baylor Ruins
TE photo
Baylor Female College, 1900s, Independence, Texas
The original Baylor Female College, early 1900s
Photo courtesy texasoldphotos.com
The stream in between the two campuses was lightheartedly referred to as The River Jordan - since the females (at least in the minds of the boys) dwelled in "the promised land."
Independence old well
The well of the former Baylor kitchen
TE photo

Windmill Hill and Recent Improvements

Recent improvements on Windmill Hill include a walking path generously landscaped with native plants and a new generation of live oaks, an observation tower and the former foundations of the school.

Much of the stone of the abandoned institution was appropriated by remaining Independence residents and it remains "on permanent loan" in many local buildings.

Windmill Hill excavations, Texas
Excavations of the former male dormitory on Windmill Hill
TE photo
Independence Texas former stage stop
Former stage stop
(Private property)
TE photo
A well has been re-excavated and lighted for the benefit of twilight visitors. The lighting offers a good look at the substantial limestone shelf the well diggers had to break through.

Visitors can orient themselves by using old photographs (transferred onto metal) provided by Baylor University.

Across the street from Windmill Hill is the former home (c. 1845) of General Jerome B. Robertson - Captain in the Army of the Republic of Texas, Captain in the Somervell Expedition and Brigadier General of Hood's Brigade, C.S.A. The house has been saved by an owner willing to wait for a buyer who will faithfully restore the property.

Independence , Texas cemetery
Independence Cemetery
TE photo

Independence Cemetery

Eight tenths of a mile North of the columns in Old Baylor Park on Coles-McCrocklin Road is the Old Independence Cemetery which dates to the 1820s. Family plots include the Clay and Coles families. Many inscriptions of places of birth show the geographical diversity of the early settlers. The setting of the cemetery surrounded by live oaks, pastures and ponds deepens an already strongly-felt timelessness.

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PEOPLE

Robert McAlpin Williamson
Three-legged Willie by Bob Bowman ("All Things Historical" Column)
"The Republic of Texas, which existed only a decade, had its share of interesting characters. But few of them were as colorful as Three Legged Willie, who passed away some 146 years ago...." more
The Houston Family as Residents

Sam Houston lived in Independence after serving as Senator from Texas in the United States. He rented a house not far from the Old Baylor Ruins and left his mark in the local church where a pew still exhibits damage from his hobby of whittling during sermons - a once popular past time that is frowned upon today.

Houston was also Baptized in Independence - on November 19, 1854 - not in the church as planned, but in Little Rocky Creek - between Houston's house and the church. Legend has it that young pranksters learned of the impending Baptism and clogged the ceremonial font with mud and debris the night before.

Margaret Lea Houston - Sam's third wife is buried in Independence. She died of Yellow Fever in 1867 and law prevented her body from being sent to Huntsville to lie beside her husband. Her mother and daughter are also buried here.
Sam Houston
by James Haley
Prior to the Civil War a debate was held in Independence on the thorny issue of secession. The debate (comprised of Baylor University students) was won in favor of the Union. A 50-foot "liberty pole" was erected and the U. S. flag unfurled, but within a short time the pole was chopped down by the mayor of Independence (Task Clay), reflecting the feelings of the majority of citizens - debate or no debate.

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© John Troesser
Bibliography: Baylor at Independence: 1845-1886, Lois Smith Murray, Baylor University Press, 1972


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This page last modified: April 15, 2007